Paris Fashion Week to showcase industry makeover with string of debuts
Paris Fashion Week kicks off Monday, ushering in a season marked by a sweeping generational shift among creative directors. The Spring-Summer 2026 collections will debut a dozen new designers at the helm of major fashion houses, signaling one of the most significant shake-ups in years as the luxury industry seeks to reignite demand amid slowing global sales.
The most anticipated moment will be Matthieu Blazy’s first Chanel show, scheduled for October 6. The 41-year-old Franco-Belgian designer, known for revitalizing Bottega Veneta and its signature intreccio leather, faces the formidable challenge of modernizing Chanel’s identity while closing the chapter on Karl Lagerfeld’s three-decade reign. Lagerfeld’s successor, Virginie Viard, was seen as a safe choice, maintaining continuity until her departure last year.
Another headline event will be Jonathan Anderson’s first women’s collection for Dior on October 1, following his acclaimed debut men’s line in June. Industry watchers are also eager to see Pierpaolo Piccioli’s vision for Balenciaga as he takes over from the controversial Demna, and Duran Lantink’s first collection as Jean Paul Gaultier’s permanent artistic director since the founder’s retirement in 2020.
Claire Thomson-Jonville, editorial director of Vogue France, described this wave of new appointments as “a sign of a new era,” bringing a more inclusive, global, and responsible approach to luxury fashion while reinterpreting the heritage of storied houses. Additional debuts include Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez at Loewe, Miguel Castro Freitas at Mugler, and Mark Thomas at Carven. Belgian designers Julie Kegels and Meryll Rogge will also make their Paris debuts.
Several designers will present their sophomore collections, often viewed as a truer reflection of their vision. These include Sarah Burton at Givenchy, Glenn Martens at Maison Margiela, and Haider Ackermann at Tom Ford. Major names such as Louis Vuitton and Hermès return with new collections, while Celine and Thom Browne rejoin the schedule after years away, ensuring what Le Monde’s Elvire von Bardeleben calls a Fashion Week “without downtime.”
Paris Fashion Week comes at a challenging moment for the luxury sector, with sluggish demand in China, U.S. tariffs, and global economic uncertainty. Yet with so many new creative voices, this season is being hailed as a historic turning point that could reshape fashion’s next decade.
