Piccioli sets new Balenciaga beat, with support from Meghan Markle
Pierpaolo Piccioli set a new tone for Balenciaga on Saturday night, marking his first collection as the fashion house’s chief creative with a poetic reminder that “every heart beats differently.” His debut, part of Paris Fashion Week, drew intense anticipation — and a touch of royal glamour — as Meghan Markle appeared in the front row wearing an ivory Balenciaga suit and cape, signaling support for the 58-year-old Italian designer.
Piccioli’s arrival at Balenciaga follows the departure of Demna, the Georgian visionary who spent a decade redefining the brand with bold, provocative, and often controversial designs. Demna’s streetwear aesthetic, viral accessories like the $2,000 “Ikea” tote and $1,800 “trash pouch,” and partnerships with celebrities such as Kim Kardashian and Cardi B had elevated Balenciaga into pop culture’s spotlight. But his 2023 advertising scandal, which drew backlash for imagery perceived as referencing child abuse, left the label facing scrutiny.
With that history looming large, Piccioli approached his first show with measured elegance. Known for his refined romanticism at Valentino — where he worked for 25 years — he signaled a gentler, more human vision for Balenciaga. The invitations themselves hinted at the theme: guests received a retro Walkman cassette player with a recording of a heartbeat, along with a note from the designer reading, “The heartbeat is the rhythm we share — the pulse that reminds us we are human. Even so, every heart beats differently.”
The show, held at Kering’s Paris headquarters, presented a shift away from Demna’s irony-laden spectacle toward timeless sophistication. Piccioli’s Spring/Summer 2026 womenswear collection featured classic silhouettes, sculpted tailoring, and subtle drama — less about shock, more about emotion and craft. “I wanted to work, even with the Demna archetype, with my own sensibility,” he told reporters afterward. “It would be stupid and disrespectful to ignore those who came before me, but I must speak with my own heart.”
His front row reflected this new direction — elegant and understated. Meghan Markle, described by her spokesperson as a long-time admirer of Piccioli’s “craftsmanship and modern elegance,” made a rare appearance in Europe for the occasion. Also in attendance were Anne Hathaway and Lauren Sánchez Bezos, newly married to Amazon founder Jeff Bezos.
Piccioli’s debut was one of several high-profile creative shifts making this season one of the most significant in recent Paris Fashion Week history. New appointments have redefined the city’s energy: Jonathan Anderson took the helm at Dior Women, Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez debuted at Loewe, and Dutch designer Duran Lantink is set to show his first collection for Jean Paul Gaultier on Sunday. Monday will bring another major moment — the long-awaited debut of Matthieu Blazy as Chanel’s creative director.
Elsewhere in Paris, heritage houses leaned into their legacies while experimenting with new moods. At Hermès, Nadege Vanhee-Cybulski presented her Spring/Summer 2026 collection inside the barracks of France’s Republican Guard, staying true to the brand’s equestrian roots but infusing them with what she called “a more bohemian touch — horseback riding as freedom, letting go, even a hint of ecstasy.” The result was a serene palette of soft leathers and airy silhouettes, both classic and carefree.
Meanwhile, at Vivienne Westwood, Austrian designer Andreas Kronthaler turned household nostalgia into haute couture. His collection, inspired by “old curtains,” featured draped gowns, corseted baroque shapes, and vibrant, theatrical fabrics — a playful nod to the late Dame Westwood’s rebellious spirit. Supermodel Heidi Klum closed the show in a white rhinestone bustier with a long flowing cape, before joining the designer on stage as he struggled under the weight of an enormous sunflower bouquet.
Klum later joined the crowd at the Elie Saab show at the Palais de Tokyo, where the Lebanese couturier offered his signature blend of glamour and grace. His latest collection featured earthy sandy tones and bold patterns that shimmered under the runway lights — a love letter to his Middle Eastern clientele and global celebrity fans. Watching from the front row were American stars Ice Spice, Demi Lovato, and Paris Hilton, adding sparkle to a night that reflected fashion’s heartbeat — ever evolving, yet deeply human.
