Piccioli sets new Balenciaga beat, with support from Meghan Markle
Pierpaolo Piccioli set a new rhythm for Balenciaga on Saturday night, debuting his first collection as chief creative with the message that “every heart beats differently.” His show at Paris Fashion Week marked a new era for the French fashion house, watched closely by an audience that included Meghan Markle, who made a rare appearance in Europe wearing an ivory Balenciaga suit and cape.
The 58-year-old Italian designer, celebrated for his poetic elegance at Valentino, faced immense expectations after replacing Demna, the Georgian designer who transformed Balenciaga over the past decade with bold streetwear and provocative concepts. Demna’s reign made headlines with viral items like the $2,000 “Ikea” tote and $1,800 “trash pouch,” but his 2023 ad controversy — criticized for referencing child abuse — tarnished the brand’s image.
Piccioli’s debut sought to reintroduce sensitivity and refinement. Guests received invitations in the form of 1980s-style Walkman cassette players containing a heartbeat recording, a metaphor for shared humanity. “The heartbeat is the rhythm we share — the pulse that reminds us we are human. Even so, every heart beats differently,” he wrote.
His Spring/Summer 2026 collection reflected this human touch — fluid lines, sculpted tailoring, and understated glamour replaced Demna’s shock-driven spectacle. “It would be stupid and disrespectful to ignore the designers before me,” Piccioli said. “But I wanted to bring my own sensibility.” His front row echoed this quieter elegance, featuring Meghan Markle, Anne Hathaway, and Lauren Sánchez Bezos. Markle’s spokesperson told Hello! magazine she has long admired Piccioli’s “craftsmanship and modern elegance.”
This season in Paris marks a turning point for luxury fashion, with several high-profile debuts reshaping the scene. Jonathan Anderson unveiled his first Dior Women’s collection, Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez took charge at Loewe, and Dutch designer Duran Lantink is set to debut at Jean Paul Gaultier. On Monday, Matthieu Blazy will reveal his first Chanel collection.
Elsewhere, Hermès designer Nadege Vanhee-Cybulski presented a bohemian take on equestrian heritage, emphasizing “freedom and letting go.” At Vivienne Westwood, Andreas Kronthaler transformed “old curtains” into flowing, corseted gowns, closing the show with Heidi Klum in a rhinestone bustier and cape. Klum then attended Elie Saab’s show, where the Lebanese couturier showcased sandy tones and bold patterns before an audience including Ice Spice, Demi Lovato, and Paris Hilton — proof that fashion’s heart still beats with creativity and emotion.
